Modular because:
- we wanted a table which looked different when we wanted to
- I have not enough room to store one or three big plates
- and we wanted to save some money :)
Step 1 - Building the frames:
Material and Tools for the building session |
3mm MDF boards (cut by the hardware store):
6x 60x60cm
12x 60x2cm
12x 59,4x2cm
Approx. cost: ~ 15 Euro.
12x 60x2cm
12x 59,4x2cm
Approx. cost: ~ 15 Euro.
Styrodur/Styrofoam plates (unfortunately the stores only had the one with structure):
3 boards, 122x60x2cm for the moduls
1 board, 122x60x2 for the hills
Approx. cost: ~ 16 Euro
1 board, 122x60x2 for the hills
Approx. cost: ~ 16 Euro
Montagekleber (I think in english that could be No more Nails?):
Approx. cost: ~ 8 Euro
After you have everything together build a frame from the single MDF fragments. This part is somewhat annoying. Be sure to have a helping hand. Out method was to use a wet brush to "paint" some water on the edges. This helps the glue to stick. The press the smaller MDF pieces on the board and wait for a short time until the glue has started to work.
One frame for the gaming table |
Then cut your Styrodur/Styrofoam that it fits into this frame. If there are some minor gaps don't worry, they can be filled later with the structur paste you will use. Again we used the glue and pressed the board into the frame.
Tip: If the frame makes problems because the glue is not dry, use some duct tape to fix it. The glue needs some time until it really hardens.
Preparing for the board |
Then let it dry under pressure. This part is really(!!!) important because this prevents the board from bending. And be patient before starting with the next steps, this whole thing needs to be completely dry. Otherwise you risk damaging the frame or worse breaking it.
If everything is complete you should end with something like this:
Detail of the raw module with some dark elves |
As you can see, the Styrodur/Styrofoam has a structure in it. This is because normally they are used for building bathrooms and the plaster will cling better. Plain Styrodur would be better, but wasn't available in my area. In one of the next parts you will see why the structure is a minor problem (but it also has one positive aspect).
For better comparability I placed some dark elves on the board ;)
For better comparability I placed some dark elves on the board ;)
This is the end of HowTo: Modular Gaming Table - Part 1. The next part will be about making different modules means making the hills for the gaming board. If you have questions about the steps so far, please feel free to leave a comment.
Hope you enjoyed it so far.
So long,
Paradox0n
P.S.: If you missed one of the parts, here is just a short linklist to every part of this series:
Modular Gaming Table - Part 1
Modular Gaming Table - Part 2
Modular Gaming Table - Part 3
Modular Gaming Table - Part 4
P.S.: If you missed one of the parts, here is just a short linklist to every part of this series:
Modular Gaming Table - Part 1
Modular Gaming Table - Part 2
Modular Gaming Table - Part 3
Modular Gaming Table - Part 4
Great guide
ReplyDeleteHave you had any warping with the wood and table over time?
Hey Paul,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment. The boards warped a bit while glueing because we didn't think of the shrinking of the glue. But afterwards there was no warping anymore.
Cheers,
Paradox0n
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